Pescara, Italy and why stay here?

Well for one the beach, the climate, and not many Americans or other Europeans have "discovered" this area so it is ripe for exploration for curious travellers like us.

We first visited the Pescara/Montesilvano area two years ago as there didn't seem to be much tourist information in the English language travel guides about the Adriatic side of Italy and certainly not much about Abruzzo other than the local rustic cuisine. This is not to say that there is little to explore as Venice, Ravenna, Bari, Brindisi, and Lecce are also along the Adriatic.

The poet Gabriele d'Annunzio

Pescara it self has a very long history and has been ruled by the French, Normans, and Turks. But the most famous hometown boy is Gabriele D'Annunzio, poet and military leader. His views on Italian fascism influenced Mussolini but was not embraced by him and they later became disenchanted with each other. But D'Annunzio's influence is also seen the the fascist rationalist style in many of the public buildings built in the mid to late 30's. Not one of my favorite architectural styles as it evokes militarism for me. 

Flaiano, Fellini and Anita Ekberg

The other famous local son is Ennio Flaiano. His international fame was as a screenwriter who worked with many famous Italian stage directors. The most famous is his script for the film "La Dolce Vita" by Federico Fellini.

Today Pescara is the most populated city in Abruzzo and the capital city of Pescara Province. The city was extensively bombed during WWII for its strategic port and rail line location.

Map of the old fortress located on both sides of the Fiume Pescara 

We did cross the Fiume Pescara to see the older and original site of Pescara. Very little of the old city remains. There we visited the site of the Bagno Borbonico, an old prison, which now houses the Museo delle genti d'abruzzo - Museum of the Abruzzi people. I wasn't expecting much from this museum but I was wrong and very pleasantly surprised with the displays of the local culture and what it was like to live here before WWII.

Entrance to Museo delle genti d'abruzzo

Museo delle genti d'abruzzo

Current exhibit of photos taken in 20"-30's of peasant life in Abruzzo

Example of stone hut used by shepherds

In August Pescara celebrates the Palio of the Pupe or Parade of Puppets. The puppets – female puppets, usually, clad in colourful clothes with a man inside guiding the puppet through the parade. These puppets are loaded with fireworks. It's also treated as a competition, as the local districts in the area of Cappelle sul Tavo compete to create the most eye-catching puppet – even if all that hard work vanishes in a blaze of pyrotechnics! 

Examples of puppets used during the Palio delle Pupe 

Cart and puppet

Older section of Pescara where many nightclubs are found

The green building is leaning

Two examples of churches found in Pescara

Saint Andrea

Sacred Heart

Other sights in Pescara

Ponte Mare-pedestrian and bike bridge crossing the Pescara River

View from Ponte Mare looking toward the Apennines 

Thunder clouds forming over the Apennines

Trabocchi - traditional fishing houses

Trabocchi

Ferry terminal at the port

Pescara marina

Teatro Michetti

Fishing boat used for clamming

More private boats along the Fiume Pescara

As seen from our kitchen window an old Army Munition storage bilding

A few differences in Abruzzo Italy

As mentioned in the last post we are currently in Pescara, Italy which is along the Adriatic Side of Italy (eastern) in the province of Abruzzo. We were last in Montesilvano after the height of the Italian vacation time so did not get to experience the crowded beachfront then. But this time the roadway along the waterfront is full of vacationers and cars. You also need to watch out for the bicyclists as you cross the street to enter or exit the beach. It is a very nice 4 mile (6 km) bicycle ride along the flat bikeway from Pescara to Montesilvano.

From here you can catch a ferry to Hvar, Croatia in about 5 hours for about $80 to $85 depending on the departure time. This is a more rustic area of Italy and there is a difference in the food style as compared to Roman style we are accustomed to in the US. Here grilled sheep (not lamb) skewers or grilled sheep liver with onions is very popular as is crudo pesce-raw thinly sliced fish or shellfish served with a little lemon and olive oil. 

Ferry port along the Pescara River

Customs office at the port

But the main attraction for most Italians during the summer months is the beach. From Ancona in the north to Francavilla a Mare to the south are the beach resorts or as the locals call them stabilimento balneare. This is not the same thing as we call resorts but rather are businesses that one rents an umbrella with a couple of loungers and chairs. It is yours for the whole day or week depending on what you want. The cost is dependent on how close to the sea you want to be-closer more expensive. There is always a cafe or restaurant associated with the stabilimento balneare where you can request food and drink and there maybe a swimming pool or kiddie area. There are free beaches where you can bring your own chair but no other service is provided and the sand is not as clean.

There is also two other main differences with American beaches-no loud music and you can safely leave you stuff while you swim. What huge difference when compared to Rio;-)

There are still the various beach vendors who will sell you everything from sunglasses to beachwear to kiddie floaties. But generally they are harmless and go away with a polite no.

Paid area or as known locally stabilimento balneare

Free beach are looking towards a stabilimento balneare 

Free beach

Free beach area looking towards the main part of Pescara

Although principally known for its seaside establishments, the Abruzzese littoral is unique for its Costa dei Trabocchi, an expanse of sea dominated by the presence of ancient fishing platforms on stilts (called trabocchi). Some trabocchi even offer rooms for tourists to stay overnight, as well as restaurants.

Trabocchi supported by stilts

So this is how we have spent our time in Pescara so far. More about Pescara the city later as it is time to head to the beach.

Was that an earthquake?

I have been in a bit of a writer's block lately and have not been very good in sending posts for our current trip. I often feel that no one is really reading what we post or may not have any interest in our travels. But that is not an
excuse for letting you know that we were not in the Marche area of Italy that recently had the 6.2 earthquake.

We are currently in Pescara on the Adriatic side of Italy. We did feel the earthquake and when it happened I wasn't really sure if that was the cause or if I was having a dizzy spell. As someone said on CNN "I am from California so I knew what was happening."  Well as a child living in Japan I remember often being shook awake from the little temblors we felt but I never felt frightened then and still don't.  I do admit that while working in Emeryville in a building, on the 7th floor, built on the mudflats I was a bit concerned during one earthquake.

Back in 2014 we went from Pescara to L'Aquila which is an area that suffered from a 6.3 earthquake in 2009. The death toll for L'Aquila was around 300 with around 60,000 left homeless.  It was very heartbreaking to see the amount of damage and the number of lives lost. Here is the link to the photos we took then: https://goo.gl/photos/R5WtHbyxFSifDUyN8

As the rebuilding of L'Aquila was full of corruption and really did not start until 2014 I am certain the rebuilding of the many hilltowns impact by the recent earthquake will not occur soon.

I wish those in Central Italy for a speedy recovery and sorrow for the loved ones lost. 

And we are off....again

Some may be thinking that we are about to reprise our 2014 adventure again based on the post title, well that isn't true. Okay it is partially true. We are returning to Italy and Spain but primarily to places we have already been to and to again investigate immigration to either Italy or Spain.

First stop will be Bologna the land of Bolognese sauce, Balsamic vinegar, cheese, and of course fast cars and motorcycles. 

Then off to relax at the beach in Pescara, jaunt over to Spain to spend more time at the beaches of Malaga and Marbella. 

The last leg has us in Roma, the Eternal City.

So stay tuned for photos and stories.

Ciao Presto!!