Wednesday, windy Wednesday
High winds and, seeing the forecast, we decided to ferry down to Puerto Banus on the diesel catamaran ferry. The surf was up. The highest we've seen so far. I knew that the catamaran ferry would not pitch much and would not roll as much as a monohull displacement boat but our route did put us parallel to the rollers so we got quite a bit of roll, though not threatening. We sat on the starboard side on the lower deck so we would be out of the sun and could watch the shore go by from about a mile out. Saw quite a few kitesurfers from a distance and we would see them up close later.Since the ferry transits back and forth from Marbella to Puerto Banus and back each hour, the helmsman knows the water even in our windstorm and he got us into the Puerto Banus harbor with little effort. To port we saw a giant white yacht, more than 100' length with 6 or more radars. After debarking we walked a bit along the quay to admire the yachts. Saw an old, but very nicely restored yacht with a large round funnel as for a steam boiler. My bet is that they left the funnel and replaced the steam boiler with a diesel. Far safer than steam boilers which were subject to explosions. I was trained on boiler feedwater treatment in San Diego in 1969. Admiral Rickover's engineering analysis ascribed the explosion that sank USS Maine in Havana harbor and started the stupid Spanish-American War to a boiler explosion. Many of the yachts were from UK ports like Portsmouth.
Although Puerto Banus may appear as a developed old Spanish fishing village it was in fact designed and built in 1970 by local property developer José Banús as a luxury marina and shopping complex. Puerto Banús is known as Costa del Sol's playground for the rich and wealthy that come here for the beaches, the beach clubs and the buzzing nightlife. The shops and restaurants reflect this expensive lifestyle, with plenty of designer names on offer around the marina. We then walked along restaurant row and admired the beautiful autos parked there. The most spectacular was a very large Rolls Royce with Arabic license plates. An oil sheikh no doubt.
We walked along to the beach path and crossed a pedestrian bridge. The Rio Verde we were crossing had perhaps a half dozen types of cane, cattails and a grebe floating on the water. The walk back to Marbella is about 7 km or 4 miles.
We walked further east, back toward our Marbella digs. Came upon a eucalyptus forest with an old torre (stone tower) and a road out to what, from a distance. looked like an ancient arched entrance from the main drag, N-340, but, upon up close examination was of recent build. The torre was genuine though unknown vintage. The base was round. Square bases are Moorish and so older.
Further along our path we were at the principal beach used by the kitesurfers. We stopped to watch a man get into his gear. After donning his wet suit he pumped up the inflatable leading edge. Then he launched the kite into the extremely stiff wind as he walked across the beach to the surf. He had to keep the kite aloft with one hand while he got his feet into foot straps on his board and soon took off. Most of the time we could see at least one of the dozen or so kitesurfers up in the air but they were mainly trying to surf along the troughs of the waves at 30-40 knots. I think part of the game was to jump out to the next trough so as to stay 100 - 200m offshore then do a midair flip while guiding the kite back the reverse way before getting too far east or west of the mile or so of best beach for kitesurfing. Quite a skilled bunch.
We resumed our walk into the gale wind until we came upon El Puente Romano where we sat out of the wind. It was recently the site of the Senior Master Tennis tournament and had John McEnroe playing.
Then back into the gale, passing by many century plants, "prickly pear"cactus and candelabra cactus until we came to 'our' creek that we first hiked up in 2014. A pleasant, paved path leads up the creek shaded by pines, palms and eucalyptus. The creek has patches overgrown by berries and other bushes. We did not tarry there but it marks the beginning of a trail that should you be inclined to hike for 5 hours you will arrive in the small hamlet of Ojen.
Thursday on the Rock
Thursday's was forecast to be another windy day so we had bought tickets for a tour of Gibraltar. The tour bus was scheduled to pick us up at 9 am. At 9:30 a large red bus (50+ people and nearly full) rolled up at our aparthotel and we were off to Gibraltar. We had sailed past it on the Star Clipper 2014 but it was before sunrise and a dark and stormy night so we had not seen it though we saw it from our balcony at our hotel here this year. We got up on the freeway and rolled along at a good pace. There were large thunderheads threatening in the distance and these clouds had their own lens clouds even though they were not near any mountains. Never saw that before. Our Spanish guide Joel (he said think Billy) and driver Charles (again think Prince) briefed us on what to expect and do as we continued, passing through several long tunnels through limestone hills.
Gibraltar has belonged to the British Crown since 1704. The king of Spain recently addressed the U.N. demanding that with Brexit, the UK must hand back the Rock but there had been a plebiscite where Gibraltarians had overwhelmingly voted to stay UK. Spain has not been able to elect a prime minister for quite some while which was why the king had to do it.
After 90 minutes travel we were stopped at the border between Spain & UK. A Spanish Guardia Civil policeman boarded and glanced at everyone's passports. The bus then pulled forward a few yards and a British bobby with checkered hat did the same. Only the Spanish officer had a gun issued as part of his standard uniform.
We edged forward behind traffic on Winston Churchill Ave. then stopped to let a jet land. The Gibraltar International Airport's only runway crosses the road.
After the airplane finished using our road we wheeled into town along very narrow streets. Despite it's length, our bus had a tight turning radius and we made it unscathed to the bus park. We had two hours to explore the town. After crossing over Line Wall Road, lined on its west side with gun ports and a few old cannon, we were at John Mackintosh Square where we found a TI (tourist information office), marked by a large lowercase "i" as they often are, and acquired a map.
The wind was whipping through the square as we walked into it along Main Street. It was quite crowded with tourists from a giant (3,500 passenger) cruise ship that had arrived that morning. As our guide had said, Main Street is lined with restaurants and shops selling jewelry, perfume and alcohol. We walked to the end of Main Street and started into Casemates Square where we were sand blasted and so scurried back onto Main Street.
A few yards back was Engineer Lane and on the corner was The Corner House Cafe. Ah, we can at least get out of the crowds and the wind and sit for a spot of tea. It was well before noon and they were still serving breakfast. The menu was totally Brit although the staff was totally Spanish. We did need to eat before our tour of the upper reaches of the Rock and here was something civilized that I can eat: toast and beans. Great. Even better, the waitress said "sure", I could get integrale toast. No ketchup but there were packets of brown sauce which was something like ketchup. Sharon had the vegetarian breakfast which was toast, egg (which I dare not eat), beans, grilled tomatoes, and mushrooms. A very good breakfast. The cafe is part of the Continental Hotel (nothing fancy mind you) but filled the need.
By the end of breakfast the cruise crowds had thinned out as the cruise ship was about to leave. Wow, why I don't want to cruise on the giants. All you would ever see ashore is more shipmates. The wind was still with us but we walked with the wind behind us. Back to the bus park and waited for smaller bus for the upward tour. The bus driver was also our local guide and like many probably does standup comedy on his off days. A colorful chap who pointed out the sights as we rolled by. He said that there are 54 mi of tunnels in the rock which is very hard limestone so needs no bracing to prevent collapse. He also said that all the fresh water used in Gibraltar is from desalination and showed us where the ultra saline water splashes out and returns to the sea. Some saline water is used in everyone's toilets. Don't know why we don't use gray water or reclaimed water for toilets in USA. After a long tunnel we came out at a lighthouse and the 100 ton gun.
Also located in this area is the The Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque, also known as the King Fahd bin Abdulaziz al-Saud Mosque or the Mosque of the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques. It is the southernmost mosque in continental Europe, and is one of the largest mosques in a non-Muslim country.
The wind was whipping across the point and, even though we were well above the sea, the big breakers below were sending sea spray up at us which somewhat inhibited photography -- don't want salt spray on lens nor in camera electronics.
Back on the mini-bus and up the narrow road with many switchbacks we climbed until we reached a wider place with other mini-buses were parked. There were also many Barbary Macaques who jumped on the buses and rolled off even if the buses were rolling. We were warned never to touch the monkeys (they will bite and try to steal your stuff) and not to feed them. They are fed by park staff. There were baby monkeys and at least one newborn suckling.
But we were also here to tour St. Michael's Cave which, during WWII had been prepared for being a hospital in case the main, above ground hospital were destroyed, but was never needed. A very nice and extensive limestone cavern with stalactites and stalagmites and frosted columns. All lit by lights that constantly changed colors.
Back on the minibus. Down and down we went. Driver said he needed the vodka he was drinking to stay calm round the sharp hairpin curves as he sucked on his water bottle. He dropped at the steps leading up to the War Memorial but the wind was still there.
We walked up a block above Main Street and found a bar where we could hide from the wind and had a pint and tea. Sharon had a beer while I had black tea. We whiled away some time there then back down to Main Street. Across the way is a very nice courtyard in the Cathedral of Saint Mary the Crowned and induced Sharon to photograph the lovely glazed tiles on the walls.Back on our big red bus with the other 48 passengers but not home free yet. We all had to debark at the border and troop through so the Spanish Guardia Civil could see our contraband. We had purchased a bottle of fine Graham's Ruby Porto wine for £6. They didn't care and waved us through.
Back on the big red bus. On the ride to Gibraltar we had starboard side seats so we could watch the mountains go by. On the ride back I cleverly got us port side seats so we could again watch the mountain side which was more interesting. Ah, but I outsmarted myself. I had figured the sun would be at most due west of us but for the first third of the journey it was shining in my port side window from its more northerly position. Luckily I could don my baseball cap to keep it of my pate.
The bus was playing muzak. "I did it my way" sung in Spanish and many instrumentals on Spanish guitar. We played name that tune. "You are so beautiful tonight" Spanish guitar cover of Clapton which we both immediately named. Then Sharon recognized Elton John's "This is your song" covered in Spanish guitar.
The bus did not return us to our hotel but dropped us on a downhill street we recognized and knew to be an easy downhill walk to our aparthotel but we were captured by La Venencia where we had Sherries. We were first introduced to sherries back in Malaga in 2014 by one of our friends at a little hole in the wall place called Antigua Casa de Guardia. I had a glass of Pedro Ximenez which I quite like. Somewhat sweet like most sherries with a hint of licorice. Nice and smooth. We sat some while on the sidewalk and sipped.
Friday
I had hoped to swim on Friday but still too windy and not warm by the sea so we hiked back up through Parque de Los Enamorados and up the hill where we could gaze out over the Alboran Sea.
Saturday
We walked along the sea to 'our' creek and up it to city streets, then along to the Maskom grocery because I like their boxed wine better even though it costs more than the ones at SuperCor or Mercadona. 1 liter for €0.63. Most stores are closed on Sundays but there are several mini-markets run by Chinese where you can get most of the basic stuff like beer and wine;-) From the liquor store next door I bought a bottle of Madeira wine. Really more like a sherry I think, though not so sweet as Porto.Back at the apartment we ate a tapas meal of mushrooms and garlic fried in olive oil, canned razor clams, canned canned langostillos (corruco which are most delicious) and mejillones (cozze, mussels) with ww toast to clean up the olive oil. Mmm. Sabor out on our patio.
Following our tapas we went down to the beach. Tide was very high leaving us nearly nowhere to toss our beach blankets. I had seen from our balcony patio that the blue flag (meaning clean beach) drooped on its pole. No wind. Sharon went for a walk while I roasted on the beach. She had walked the beach and waded out to chest depth and reported that the water was warmer.
I dove in and judged the water to be warmer than at earlier swims. About the same as the Adriatic a month ago. There is a url that will give you the local sea temp and it said the water was 2 degrees warmer than earlier in the week. Sea temperature came up with the gale winds previous three days. 'Tis an ill wind that blows no good. What a relief and a joy. I swam maybe 100 yards out on backstroke (hands at sides not overhead) since the sun was southwest. Ah. Not warm water but only cool. Swam back to the beach and laid in the sun to get warm.
After getting too warm I was back in the water. Swam further out to near the red buoy warning boats to stand clear. About 170 yards. Some SOB drove his jetski inside that boundary, causing me concern and anger though I think it was a jet so no propeller blades to slice me but still very dangerous for swimmers at high speed. I then swam over to the rock jetty/breakwater and then back parallel to the beach but also parallel to incoming swells so harder to maintain course. Was a bit chilled after getting out. Clouds were rolling off the tall mountains to the north.
Praying to Poseidon for another good swim day tomorrow, Sunday.
Sharon's excellent photos.
https://1drv.ms/a/s!AgrS-fsZcCkbhRuc8lLSXoQMBCcI
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