Pescara, Italy and why stay here?

Well for one the beach, the climate, and not many Americans or other Europeans have "discovered" this area so it is ripe for exploration for curious travellers like us.

We first visited the Pescara/Montesilvano area two years ago as there didn't seem to be much tourist information in the English language travel guides about the Adriatic side of Italy and certainly not much about Abruzzo other than the local rustic cuisine. This is not to say that there is little to explore as Venice, Ravenna, Bari, Brindisi, and Lecce are also along the Adriatic.

The poet Gabriele d'Annunzio

Pescara it self has a very long history and has been ruled by the French, Normans, and Turks. But the most famous hometown boy is Gabriele D'Annunzio, poet and military leader. His views on Italian fascism influenced Mussolini but was not embraced by him and they later became disenchanted with each other. But D'Annunzio's influence is also seen the the fascist rationalist style in many of the public buildings built in the mid to late 30's. Not one of my favorite architectural styles as it evokes militarism for me. 

Flaiano, Fellini and Anita Ekberg

The other famous local son is Ennio Flaiano. His international fame was as a screenwriter who worked with many famous Italian stage directors. The most famous is his script for the film "La Dolce Vita" by Federico Fellini.

Today Pescara is the most populated city in Abruzzo and the capital city of Pescara Province. The city was extensively bombed during WWII for its strategic port and rail line location.

Map of the old fortress located on both sides of the Fiume Pescara 

We did cross the Fiume Pescara to see the older and original site of Pescara. Very little of the old city remains. There we visited the site of the Bagno Borbonico, an old prison, which now houses the Museo delle genti d'abruzzo - Museum of the Abruzzi people. I wasn't expecting much from this museum but I was wrong and very pleasantly surprised with the displays of the local culture and what it was like to live here before WWII.

Entrance to Museo delle genti d'abruzzo

Museo delle genti d'abruzzo

Current exhibit of photos taken in 20"-30's of peasant life in Abruzzo

Example of stone hut used by shepherds

In August Pescara celebrates the Palio of the Pupe or Parade of Puppets. The puppets – female puppets, usually, clad in colourful clothes with a man inside guiding the puppet through the parade. These puppets are loaded with fireworks. It's also treated as a competition, as the local districts in the area of Cappelle sul Tavo compete to create the most eye-catching puppet – even if all that hard work vanishes in a blaze of pyrotechnics! 

Examples of puppets used during the Palio delle Pupe 

Cart and puppet

Older section of Pescara where many nightclubs are found

The green building is leaning

Two examples of churches found in Pescara

Saint Andrea

Sacred Heart

Other sights in Pescara

Ponte Mare-pedestrian and bike bridge crossing the Pescara River

View from Ponte Mare looking toward the Apennines 

Thunder clouds forming over the Apennines

Trabocchi - traditional fishing houses

Trabocchi

Ferry terminal at the port

Pescara marina

Teatro Michetti

Fishing boat used for clamming

More private boats along the Fiume Pescara

As seen from our kitchen window an old Army Munition storage bilding

A few differences in Abruzzo Italy

As mentioned in the last post we are currently in Pescara, Italy which is along the Adriatic Side of Italy (eastern) in the province of Abruzzo. We were last in Montesilvano after the height of the Italian vacation time so did not get to experience the crowded beachfront then. But this time the roadway along the waterfront is full of vacationers and cars. You also need to watch out for the bicyclists as you cross the street to enter or exit the beach. It is a very nice 4 mile (6 km) bicycle ride along the flat bikeway from Pescara to Montesilvano.

From here you can catch a ferry to Hvar, Croatia in about 5 hours for about $80 to $85 depending on the departure time. This is a more rustic area of Italy and there is a difference in the food style as compared to Roman style we are accustomed to in the US. Here grilled sheep (not lamb) skewers or grilled sheep liver with onions is very popular as is crudo pesce-raw thinly sliced fish or shellfish served with a little lemon and olive oil. 

Ferry port along the Pescara River

Customs office at the port

But the main attraction for most Italians during the summer months is the beach. From Ancona in the north to Francavilla a Mare to the south are the beach resorts or as the locals call them stabilimento balneare. This is not the same thing as we call resorts but rather are businesses that one rents an umbrella with a couple of loungers and chairs. It is yours for the whole day or week depending on what you want. The cost is dependent on how close to the sea you want to be-closer more expensive. There is always a cafe or restaurant associated with the stabilimento balneare where you can request food and drink and there maybe a swimming pool or kiddie area. There are free beaches where you can bring your own chair but no other service is provided and the sand is not as clean.

There is also two other main differences with American beaches-no loud music and you can safely leave you stuff while you swim. What huge difference when compared to Rio;-)

There are still the various beach vendors who will sell you everything from sunglasses to beachwear to kiddie floaties. But generally they are harmless and go away with a polite no.

Paid area or as known locally stabilimento balneare

Free beach are looking towards a stabilimento balneare 

Free beach

Free beach area looking towards the main part of Pescara

Although principally known for its seaside establishments, the Abruzzese littoral is unique for its Costa dei Trabocchi, an expanse of sea dominated by the presence of ancient fishing platforms on stilts (called trabocchi). Some trabocchi even offer rooms for tourists to stay overnight, as well as restaurants.

Trabocchi supported by stilts

So this is how we have spent our time in Pescara so far. More about Pescara the city later as it is time to head to the beach.

Was that an earthquake?

I have been in a bit of a writer's block lately and have not been very good in sending posts for our current trip. I often feel that no one is really reading what we post or may not have any interest in our travels. But that is not an
excuse for letting you know that we were not in the Marche area of Italy that recently had the 6.2 earthquake.

We are currently in Pescara on the Adriatic side of Italy. We did feel the earthquake and when it happened I wasn't really sure if that was the cause or if I was having a dizzy spell. As someone said on CNN "I am from California so I knew what was happening."  Well as a child living in Japan I remember often being shook awake from the little temblors we felt but I never felt frightened then and still don't.  I do admit that while working in Emeryville in a building, on the 7th floor, built on the mudflats I was a bit concerned during one earthquake.

Back in 2014 we went from Pescara to L'Aquila which is an area that suffered from a 6.3 earthquake in 2009. The death toll for L'Aquila was around 300 with around 60,000 left homeless.  It was very heartbreaking to see the amount of damage and the number of lives lost. Here is the link to the photos we took then: https://goo.gl/photos/R5WtHbyxFSifDUyN8

As the rebuilding of L'Aquila was full of corruption and really did not start until 2014 I am certain the rebuilding of the many hilltowns impact by the recent earthquake will not occur soon.

I wish those in Central Italy for a speedy recovery and sorrow for the loved ones lost. 

And we are off....again

Some may be thinking that we are about to reprise our 2014 adventure again based on the post title, well that isn't true. Okay it is partially true. We are returning to Italy and Spain but primarily to places we have already been to and to again investigate immigration to either Italy or Spain.

First stop will be Bologna the land of Bolognese sauce, Balsamic vinegar, cheese, and of course fast cars and motorcycles. 

Then off to relax at the beach in Pescara, jaunt over to Spain to spend more time at the beaches of Malaga and Marbella. 

The last leg has us in Roma, the Eternal City.

So stay tuned for photos and stories.

Ciao Presto!! 

Food from home

In one of my earlier posts about living in Amsterdam I mentioned that you needed to be careful when buying simple things like catsup and soy sauce as they tended to be Indonesian flavoured as that is where the products originally came from. These two items were not at all similar to what many Americans have come to enjoy. I am not a big catsup fan especially after working in a cannery and saw how it was made so that wasn't as much of a problem for me as it was to find a soy sauce similar to what the Japanese used. Many a bottle went into the trash bin while I was in Amsterdam.

What I didn't realize was how many other items were being sought after by the expat community until a German friend told me about his nieces desire to buy Pop Tarts in Amsterdam. Okay another product that I did not consume nor desire but there were stores that catered to that need.

Amsterdam

Absolutely British
Eleanor Rooseveltlaan 102-104 in Amstelveen
www.absolutelybritish.nl/stocklist.html
The Expat Supermarket for Amsterdam / Amstelveen. Buy all your favourite British Foods in Amsterdam, find every thing you need for Alittle taste of home with the largest British Expat Grocer in the Netherlands.
Online orders taken. Minimum order for deliveries EUR 45.


Arkwright's
Rozengracht 13, Amsterdam
Tel: 020 320 0710
www.arkwrights.nl/
Open: Tues-Sun 11am -8pm; Mon 1pm-8pm

Among its collection of goods from home, Arkwright's offers Colman's mustard, Duncan Hines baking products, Cheerios, Crunchy Nut corn flakes, HP sauce, Branston pickles and Crisco. They also have sausage and bacon for those who crave an English breakfast. It is fully stocked with Christmas goodies, including Christmas Cakes, puddings, Brandy sauce, double and clotted cream, Christmas crackers, selection boxes, and more. The shop opened in August 2001 and is conveniently located very close to the Westerkerk and Anne Frank House.

British General Stores
1e Constantijn Huygenstraat 94
1054 BX Amsterdam

Tel: 020 6836191
Fax: 020 675 3518
email: lsargent@zonnet.nl
Online: www.britishstore.nl
Open Monday 13.00 TO 18.00
Tuesday to Saturday 10.30 TO 18.00
Thursday open until 21.00
Closed on Sunday




This cosy shop is much more than a grocery store. In addition to Rice Krispies, Heinz baked beans, Tetley's and Twinning teas, Oxo cubes, Vegemite and mint sauce, the shop carries English greeting cards, colouring books and toys. Baking fanatics will appreciate British baking goods such as cream of tartar and self-raising flour. Owner Lin Sargent opened the store back in 1998 and receives her customers with warmth and care. To end the year in style, the store has a selection of Christmas stockings, tree decorations and chocolates, plus some Christmas puddings. Special mail order packages are available according to the season.

Eichholtz
Leidsestraat 48
Amsterdam
Tel. 020 622 0305
Open. Mon-Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 1pm-6pm





Homesick Americans will love Eichholtz. Here you'll find various goodies you never thought you’d see again, including the latest cereals, and Oreo and Chips Ahoy cookies. They also carry and Hellmann's mayonnaise, Quaker oats, Special K cereal, Philadelphia cream cheese, Pillsbury baking products, Aunt Jemima pancake mix, marshmallows, graham crackers and real maple syrup. If you bake a lot, you will like the range of sugars. Demerara, light muscovado and molasses. The shop is good for English-style Christmas puddings and mince pies and there is also a great range of chocolate available, plus a jar of vegemite or two for homesick Australians.


Tjin's
Eerste van der Helstraat 64
1072 NZ Amsterdam
Tel: 020 671 7708
Fax: 020 664 3730
Open: Mon-Sat 10am-8pm


Tjin's is an Asian grocery store (on a side street off the Albert Cuyp market) that carries American food. You’ll find microwave popcorn, Cheez Its, Duncan Hines frostings, Hershey’s chocolate syrup, Kraft and Cheltenhouse salad dressings, marshmallow Fluff, Karo corn syrup and best of all, ZipLoc bags. The store also carries ingredients for Japanese, Indian, Indonesian and Filipino cooking, and has cooked dishes (Indonesian and Surinam food) for takeaway.

Kingsalmarkt
Rembrandtweg 617-635
Amstelveen
Tel: 020 643 3751

www.kingsalmarkt.nl/


Kingsalmarkt a large, bright store filled with fresh vegetables, fruits and meats, is one of the better markets around the Amsterdam area. They stock typical Dutch grocery items but also expat favourites like cake mixes, HP sauce, breakfast scones and maple syrup.
Bloemendaal

A.A. Rutte
Bloemendaalseweg 20
2061 CK, BLoemendaal
Tel: 023 525 58 12

8:30 - 18:30 daily.
Fridays until 20:0
Saturdays until 18:00


The very friendly people at A.A. Rutte stock English and American foods such as HP Sauce, Bisquick, cake mixes, cereals (Cheerios, Cap'n Crunch, Honey Grahams), Hellman's Mayonnaise and S&W Chili Makin's. At your request they will also make special orders for items such as Log Cabin Maple Syrup. This small, well-stocked shop is worth a visit.

So why am I mentioning this now. Well here is a store we found while wandering around the historic center in Sevilla Spain and no we did not buy anything though we did have a good laugh.

Islands in the Aegean, Ionian, and Adriatic Seas and Chinese tourists

Years ago when I was a much younger wage slave I watched the movie "Shirley Valentine" and agreed that the protagonist's desire to sit on beach on a Greek island drinking wine would be so hedonistic and wonderful. What I didn't realize at the time and did not fully grasp was the attitudes of many Western travelers were like when taken out of their normal environment and how much they feared the things they did not "know" in their day to day life. 

Well movie reality and real reality are not always the same. When travelling to the islands on our cruise I had envisioned sandy beaches where I could sit and sip an aperitif or two. Well I did get to have a few beers at some port stops but if you have travelled on cruises you will know that sometimes the stops are not long enough to have a casual drink and relax. There are shore excursions or other must see sights to be done before boarding the tender back to the ship. And if you do pull into port you may be one of hundreds bombarding an island at the same time overloading the basic infrastructure of the island. The ship we were on had only had 160 passengers which allowed us to go into ports the larger ships could not. At one port I watch a larger cruise (a floating village or a horizontal floating hotel) ship pull into port and it took almost an hour the passengers to disembarked. Now these hoards are looking for, gasp, a hamburger and fries with a Coke. Not the unique food and flavors of the islands unless that happens to contain some alcohol. the other advantage of our cruise ship was that it was an European based line so catered more to European tastes though the second half of the cruise was mostly Americans and Canadians. The entertainment was provided by a classically trained musician who felt he needed to play "Achy Breaky Heart" over and over. He did play some Frank Sinatra and other pop/rock classics but one night played classical piano in the main lounge. He was interrupted by some noisy North Americans trying to get to the bar during the middle of one piece.

Not all of the larger cruise ships passengers were Westerners many were Chinese. The Chinese are now one of largest groups travelling in the Western world and have surpassed the Japanese. This too has changed Mediterranean travel. One of the most annoying things is trying to get past someone from China taking selfies in the middle of a narrow European passageway not understanding that those of us trying to get some where are queuing up waiting for them to get out of the way. China's National Tourism Administration has issued a 64-page Guidebook for Civilized Tourism (Link here). One of  a few items found include:

The caption reads: “Don’t spit phlegm or gum, throw litter, urinate or defecate wherever you feel like it. Don’t cough, sneeze or pick your nose or teeth in front of others.”




But after awhile with or without the Chinese and other Western tourists the islands dis start to look the same. For many it had to do with Venetian rule and for others it was just a fact of geology. I haven't identified where these photos were taken but will admit I did pick the photos that had similar looks just to prove my point but each and everyone was an adventure to explore.

I have heard from a few of you who read this blog and you too have said many of the same things that Shirley's friends did when she said she was going on her adventure. No I am not really brave I just want to see the world as it really is and not in the way I live day to day at home. This may mean I will eat the local cuisine and obey the local rules but I will be on an adventure.

All those who wander are not lost.